Girnar travel notes

How to climb Girnar’s 9,999 steps: a practical guide

Girnar rises above Junagadh in Gujarat, and the stairway to its highest shrine has about 9,999 steps. Pilgrims of the Hindu and Jain traditions climb it, and so do trekkers who simply love a hard, rewarding walk. The stairway begins at Girnar Taleti, a short distance from our guest house at Bhavnath Taleti.

When to go

Winter, from November to February, is the most comfortable season. The stone steps heat up fast in summer, so in any month it helps to start in the early hours and be well on your way before the sun climbs. Many people begin before dawn.

What to carry

• Two litres of water and a light snack such as dates, nuts or biscuits
• Comfortable shoes with good grip, since the steps can be worn smooth
• A cap, a light jacket for the wind on the peaks and a small torch if you start in the dark
• A small bag only. Heavy luggage stays in your room

The route, step by step

The stairway passes the Jain temples on the lower hill, then reaches the Ambaji temple. Gorakhnath is the highest peak. From there you descend a long flight of steps and climb again to the Dattatreya shrine, where the footprints of Lord Dattatreya are worshipped. A ropeway serves the Ambaji area, so check its current timings if you want to save part of the climb.

Pace yourself

Rest every few hundred steps and sip water often. Small stalls along the way usually sell water and tea. Most people need the better part of a day for the full climb and return, so do not plan anything else for the same afternoon.

Girnar Lili Parikrama: what to expect and where to stay

The Girnar Lili Parikrama is a circumambulation of the sacred mountain. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims walk the circuit on foot each year, and it is one of Gujarat’s great devotional gatherings.

The route

The circuit is about 36 km. It starts near Bhavnath at the foot of Girnar, passes through forest, and returns to Bhavnath. Walkers usually take around three days and rest at stops along the way. Volunteers and local communities set up seva camps that offer food, water and a place to sit.

When it happens

The Parikrama is held in the Hindu month of Kartik, from Ekadashi to Purnima, which usually falls in November. The exact dates change every year, so check the Hindu calendar when you plan.

How to prepare

• Break in your footwear before you come. New shoes mean blisters on day two
• Carry light, with a water bottle, a shawl, a torch and a small first-aid kit
• Keep your phone charged and your ID in a waterproof pouch
• Begin with darshan at Bhavnath Mahadev Temple, as many walkers do

Where to stay

Bhavnath Taleti is the natural base, because the walk begins and ends here. Rooms vanish quickly in the weeks around the Parikrama. A room on arrival lets you start rested, and a room at the end lets you collapse properly.

Bhavnath Mahashivratri Mela: the fair at Girnar’s foot

Every year the quiet lanes around Bhavnath Mahadev Temple fill with devotees for the Bhavnath Mela. It is a five-day fair that reaches its peak on Mahashivratri night, usually in February or March.

Why Bhavnath

The temple stands at the base of Girnar, beside the sacred Mrigi Kund. Local tradition holds that Lord Shiva visits Bhavnath on Mahashivratri night, and the Skanda Purana carries a legend about the fair. For pilgrims, a visit at this time is deeply auspicious.

What you will see

Naga sadhus from the akhadas arrive in procession, many with ash-smeared bodies and long matted hair. The sadhus take a ritual dip in the kund, and at night the temple holds the Maha Puja. Stalls sell prasad, rudraksha and religious books. The whole area hums with devotional singing.

Planning your visit

• Arrive a day before the main night so you can find your way around in daylight
• Expect heavy crowds and long queues for darshan, so go early or late in the day
• Keep valuables in your room and carry only what you need
• Book accommodation well in advance, since Bhavnath Taleti fills completely

What is Juna Akhada? A short guide for first-time visitors

Visitors to Bhavnath Taleti often ask about the tall building with the dark Shivling tower. It belongs to Shree Panch Dashnam Juna Akhada, one of the most important monastic orders in India.

An order of sadhus

An akhada is a community of sannyasis, traditionally organised for both spiritual study and discipline. Juna Akhada is among the thirteen recognised akhadas and is widely described as the largest. It is Shaiva in tradition, and it traces its lineage to Adi Shankaracharya.

Dattatreya and the Naga sadhus

The akhada’s ishta devata is Lord Dattatreya, the wandering guru, whose footprints are worshipped at the top of Girnar. Juna Akhada is also known for its Naga sadhus, who lead grand processions at the Kumbh Mela.

The building at Bhavnath Taleti

The seven-storey building has about 120 rooms. It was built to house the saints who visit Girnar, and its central tower takes the form of a Shivling with tripundra bands and a red dot.

What visitors should know

• Dress modestly and speak softly in the compound
• Ask before taking photographs of sadhus
• Show the same respect you would at any temple
• Questions are welcome. Ask at the reception and someone will help

Plan your Junagadh trip: Girnar, Uparkot and beyond

Junagadh rewards more than a single day. Besides the mountain, the old city has an ancient fort, medieval stepwells and a zoo that helps protect the Asiatic lion. Staying at Bhavnath Taleti keeps you close to the mountain and a short ride from the rest.

A three-day plan

1. Day one: settle in. Arrive, rest, and walk to Bhavnath Mahadev Temple in the evening. Look up at Girnar and scout the first steps.
2. Day two: the climb. Start before dawn, go up to the Dattatreya shrine and be back by afternoon for a long rest.
3. Day three: the old city. Visit Uparkot Fort and its stepwells, then Sakkarbaug Zoo before you leave.

Nearby places and rough distances from Bhavnath

• Uparkot Fort, about 4 to 5 km
• Adi Kadi Vav and Navghan Kuvo, ancient stepwells, about 3.5 to 4.5 km
• Sakkarbaug Zoo, about 6 km
• Gir National Park, the home of Asiatic lions, needs a separate day trip

Getting here

Junagadh Junction railway station is about 5 km from Bhavnath Taleti. Rajkot is the nearest major airport, and the road to Junagadh takes around two to three hours. From the station or bus stand, take an autorickshaw or taxi to Bhavnath Taleti.

Best season

November to February is cooler and best for the climb. The Lili Parikrama and the Mahashivratri Mela bring spiritual crowds, so book early if you plan to come then.